Browse Items (2078 total)
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Detail of label inside hat
Navy blue wool WAVES uniform. A. Jacket; set-in sleeves; light blue stripe and star at wrists; padded shoulders; two fake pockets above bustline; four gold buttons at front opening; princess seams at front and back; completely lined; two inside pockets; Mrs. Judge's name stitched in collar; applique' anchor sewn on each lapel. B. Skirt; six gores; welt pockets in front; 1 inch waistband; left side zipper closure with button; not lined. C. Hat; fold-over; anchor insignia patch.
Worn by donor, Jean Judge, during World War II. According to the donor, the skirt pockets are in roughly the same position as the corresponding buttons on sailor pants. The squared-off dress hat was copied after the British seaman's hat of 18th century. The donor's was mildewed and has only the fold-over hat left, which was their Class B hat. They wore white shirts and black ties with suit for dress and navy shirts and light blue ties for work. Optional light blue shirts were available. They were allowed nylons; Navy Nurses had to wear black cotton hose. They wore a protective navy blue wool hat covering, called a havelock, in inclement weather and were not allowed to carry umbrellas or parcels. A black shoulder strap leather bag was worn with this uniform and with summer whites. Heels were no higher than 2 inches and skirt lengths 17 to 18 inches from floor. Gold buttons on jacket were for officers, plain blue plastic for non-commissioned. One blue sleeve stripe indicated lowly Ensign. The men never let them have gold stripes such as theirs. -
Detail of "Jean P. Judge" twill tape at inside collar
Navy blue wool WAVES uniform. A. Jacket; set-in sleeves; light blue stripe and star at wrists; padded shoulders; two fake pockets above bustline; four gold buttons at front opening; princess seams at front and back; completely lined; two inside pockets; Mrs. Judge's name stitched in collar; applique' anchor sewn on each lapel. B. Skirt; six gores; welt pockets in front; 1 inch waistband; left side zipper closure with button; not lined. C. Hat; fold-over; anchor insignia patch.
Worn by donor, Jean Judge, during World War II. According to the donor, the skirt pockets are in roughly the same position as the corresponding buttons on sailor pants. The squared-off dress hat was copied after the British seaman's hat of 18th century. The donor's was mildewed and has only the fold-over hat left, which was their Class B hat. They wore white shirts and black ties with suit for dress and navy shirts and light blue ties for work. Optional light blue shirts were available. They were allowed nylons; Navy Nurses had to wear black cotton hose. They wore a protective navy blue wool hat covering, called a havelock, in inclement weather and were not allowed to carry umbrellas or parcels. A black shoulder strap leather bag was worn with this uniform and with summer whites. Heels were no higher than 2 inches and skirt lengths 17 to 18 inches from floor. Gold buttons on jacket were for officers, plain blue plastic for non-commissioned. One blue sleeve stripe indicated lowly Ensign. The men never let them have gold stripes such as theirs. -
Detail of "WAVES" patch on inside pocket
Navy blue wool WAVES uniform. A. Jacket; set-in sleeves; light blue stripe and star at wrists; padded shoulders; two fake pockets above bustline; four gold buttons at front opening; princess seams at front and back; completely lined; two inside pockets; Mrs. Judge's name stitched in collar; applique' anchor sewn on each lapel. B. Skirt; six gores; welt pockets in front; 1 inch waistband; left side zipper closure with button; not lined. C. Hat; fold-over; anchor insignia patch.
Worn by donor, Jean Judge, during World War II. According to the donor, the skirt pockets are in roughly the same position as the corresponding buttons on sailor pants. The squared-off dress hat was copied after the British seaman's hat of 18th century. The donor's was mildewed and has only the fold-over hat left, which was their Class B hat. They wore white shirts and black ties with suit for dress and navy shirts and light blue ties for work. Optional light blue shirts were available. They were allowed nylons; Navy Nurses had to wear black cotton hose. They wore a protective navy blue wool hat covering, called a havelock, in inclement weather and were not allowed to carry umbrellas or parcels. A black shoulder strap leather bag was worn with this uniform and with summer whites. Heels were no higher than 2 inches and skirt lengths 17 to 18 inches from floor. Gold buttons on jacket were for officers, plain blue plastic for non-commissioned. One blue sleeve stripe indicated lowly Ensign. The men never let them have gold stripes such as theirs. -
WAVES uniform
Navy blue wool WAVES (Women Accepted for Voluntary Emergency Service) uniform. A. Jacket; set-in sleeves; light blue stripe and star at wrists; padded shoulders; two fake pockets above bustline; four gold buttons at front opening; princess seams at front and back; completely lined; two inside pockets; Mrs. Judge's name stitched in collar; appliqué anchor sewn on each lapel. B. Skirt; six gores; welt pockets in front; 1 inch waistband; left side zipper closure with button; not lined. C. Hat; fold-over; anchor insignia patch.
Worn by donor, Jean Judge, during World War II. According to the donor, the skirt pockets are in roughly the same position as the corresponding buttons on sailor pants. The squared-off dress hat was copied after the British seaman's hat of 18th century. The donor's was mildewed and has only the fold-over hat left, which was their Class B hat. They wore white shirts and black ties with suit for dress and navy shirts and light blue ties for work. Optional light blue shirts were available. They were allowed nylons; Navy Nurses had to wear black cotton hose. They wore a protective navy blue wool hat covering, called a havelock, in inclement weather and were not allowed to carry umbrellas or parcels. A black shoulder strap leather bag was worn with this uniform and with summer whites. Heels were no higher than 2 inches and skirt lengths 17 to 18 inches from floor. Gold buttons on jacket were for officers, plain blue plastic for non-commissioned. One blue sleeve stripe indicated lowly Ensign. The men never let them have gold stripes such as theirs. -
Detail of label
A. Tan poplin shirtwaist school uniform dress; military style; asymmetrical center front placket with brass buttons in floral motif; black ribbon bow at center neckline; long sleeves with turned-back cuffs; small twill tape label sewn inside: "Bettie Harnischfeger". B. White poplin school uniform collar and black bow; starched; detachable from dress. C. Black patent leather school uniform belt; brass buckle with school motto in Latin: "Cogitare; Agere; Esse" which translates to "To think; To do; To be".
Worn by the donor, Mrs. Elizabeth Ogden (née Bettie Harnischfeger), as a student at Westover Boarding School in Middlebury, Connecticut. The school uniform was designed by Mainbocher at the request of Mrs. William Paley. It was worn with starched white collar, tied bow tie, and polished shoes. This costume was checked daily; if incorrect, the student was required to memorize a literary piece and recite it to other students. Mrs. Ogden attended this school from 1937-1939 (ages 15-17), known as a "two year girl". The khaki uniform was the day uniform. -
Westover School uniform
A. Tan poplin shirtwaist school uniform dress; military style; asymmetrical center front placket with brass buttons in floral motif; black ribbon bow at center neckline; long sleeves with turned-back cuffs; small twill tape label sewn inside: "Bettie Harnischfeger". B. White poplin school uniform collar and black bow; starched; detachable from dress. C. Black patent leather school uniform belt; brass buckle with school motto in Latin: "Cogitare; Agere; Esse" which translates to "To think; To do; To be".
Worn by the donor, Mrs. Elizabeth Ogden (née Bettie Harnischfeger), as a student at Westover Boarding School in Middlebury, Connecticut. The school uniform was designed by Mainbocher at the request of Mrs. William Paley. It was worn with starched white collar, tied bow tie, and polished shoes. This costume was checked daily; if incorrect, the student was required to memorize a literary piece and recite it to other students. Mrs. Ogden attended this school from 1937-1939 (ages 15-17), known as a "two year girl". The khaki uniform was the day uniform.Tags belt, brass, collar, dress, Mainbocher, patent leather, poplin, tan, uniform, Westover School, white -
Suit
A. Navy blue crepe suit jacket with white daisy print; flat collar; 4 navy blue plastic buttons at center front; long set in sleeves; flap pockets on high hip; lined in navy blue crepe. B. Navy blue crepe suit skirt with white daisy print; straight silhouette; straight waistband; new nylon zipper. -
Detail of label
Burgundy rayon crepe day dress; square neckline; long raglan sleeves with covered buttons at wrists; stitching thread is lighter than fabric color; hand-overcasting in heavy thread; bias cut; seamlines across hips; not lined; multicolored Eastern European-inspired cross-stitch floral embroidery, in strips on bodice neckline and top of sleeves; rows of faggotting near embroidery; mid-calf length. Label: "Adaptation Mainbocher Paris". -
Dress
Burgundy rayon crepe day dress; square neckline; long raglan sleeves with covered buttons at wrists; stitching thread is lighter than fabric color; hand-overcasting in heavy thread; bias cut; seamlines across hips; not lined; multicolored Eastern European-inspired cross-stitch floral embroidery, in strips on bodice neckline and top of sleeves; rows of faggotting near embroidery; mid-calf length. Label: "Adaptation Mainbocher Paris". -
Evening gown
White silk satin evening gown with hot pink voided velvet undulating lines and flower heads; jewel neckline; sleeveless; bodice fitted through darts; sewn in belt at waistline seam; center back metal zipper closure; side zipper closure; gathered skirt; unlined; ankle length; label in skirt; couture techniques.
Worn by Mrs. Carlton Henry of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. -
Cocktail dress
Navy blue floral lace cocktail dress; square neckline; sleeveless; fitted bodice; waistline seam; waist darts; side zipper closure; full skirt pleated into waist seam; label in skirt; lined in beige taffeta; mid-calf length; couture techniques. -
Afternoon dress
Navy blue crocheted wool lace over white tulle afternoon dress; lace pattern of large round flowers with oblong leaves; large oblong shapes at hips; jewel neckline tucked to shape; sleeveless; natural waistline seam; left side zipper closure; mid-calf length. -
Gown without capelet
A. Black crepe and fringe evening gown; cowl neckline at front; deep V-neckline at back; thin straps wrapped with fringe; straight silhouette; fringe starts at hips and goes down to floor; applied on base in chevron pattern; floor length.
Worn with capelet (Object ID #2015.03.01.b) to form two piece evening ensemble.
This ensemble was given to the donor's mother by a wealthy lady she worked for in New York City in the 1920s and '30s. The woman's identity is unknown. A bolduc was found on back of tag with words "Mrs. Vreeland". This dress might have belonged to Diane Vreeland, although this is not confirmed. -
Two piece evening ensemble
A. Black crepe and fringe evening gown; cowl neckline at front; deep V-neckline at back; thin straps wrapped with fringe; straight silhouette; fringe starts at hips and goes down to floor; applied on base in chevron pattern; floor length. B. Black crepe and fringe capelet; fringe applied to base in chevron pattern; hem of capelet is also chevron shaped; center front opening with snap closure at neck; label: "Mainbocher, 12 Avenue George V a Paris"; twill tape bolduc on back of label: "21381- Mrs. Vreeland".
This ensemble was given to the donor's mother by a wealthy lady she worked for in New York City in the 1920s and '30s. The woman's identity is unknown. A bolduc was found on back of tag with words "Mrs. Vreeland". This dress might have belonged to Diane Vreeland, although this is not confirmed. -
Dress without jacket
A. Off-white silk shantung dress in beige and brown geometric print; sleeveless; two bows at center front neckline; flat bow at center front waistline; pleated and draped skirt; underlined in white silk taffeta.
Worn with jacket (Object ID #2004.03.21.b) to form two piece ensemble. -
Two piece ensemble
A. Off-white silk shantung dress in beige and brown geometric print; sleeveless; two bows at center front neckline; flat bow at center front waistline; pleated and draped skirt; underlined in white silk taffeta. B. Off-white silk shantung jacket in beige and brown geometric print; round Peter Pan collar with ties under collar to form bow; 3/4 length set-in cuffed sleeves; additional panel of white silk taffeta with 3 rows of horsehair in back; lined in silk taffeta; mink trim at bottom; short length. -
Detail inside stole
B. Chinchilla fur shawl collar; skin worked horizontally; vertical fur edging.
Worn with cloche (Object ID #1986.449.a).
Hat label text: "Garth and Margaret Evansville, Indiana".
Part of Jullily House Kohler's going away suit.Tags brown, chinchilla, fur, Garth and Margaret, going-away, Julilly House Kohler, Kohler, stole, tan -
Detail inside cloche
A. Brown and tan chinchilla fur cloche.
Worn with stole (Object ID #1986.449.b).
Hat label text: "Garth and Margaret Evansville, Indiana".
Part of Jullily House Kohler's going away suit.Tags brown, chinchilla, cloche, fur, Garth and Margaret, going-away, hat, Julilly House Kohler, Kohler, tan -
Cloche and stole
A. Brown and tan chinchilla fur cloche. B. Chinchilla fur shawl collar; skin worked horizontally; vertical fur edging.
Hat label text: "Garth and Margaret Evansville, Indiana".
Part of Jullily House Kohler's going away suit.Tags brown, chinchilla, cloche, fur, Garth and Margaret, going-away, hat, Julilly House Kohler, Kohler, stole, tan -
Pumps
Dark purple leather pumps; cut-outs trimmed with copper colored steel beads; pointed toes; Louis heels; marked "Pogue's, Cincinnati" on insoles.
Worn by a member of the House family.