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Detail of inside lining
Black and green feather pattern velvet vest; back of vest is solid black wool; jewel collar; double-breasted with 8 silver filigree button closure; front has princess line seams; back has modified princess line; waist length; lined in red and green plaid cotton. -
Vest
Black and green feather pattern velvet vest; back of vest is solid black wool; jewel collar; double-breasted with 8 silver filigree button closure; front has princess line seams; back has modified princess line; waist length; lined in red and green plaid cotton. -
Dress
Blue-green cotton A-line dress; printed fabric with a dark green tassel motif; princess seams; collarless; open at center front overlap; 3/4 length kimono sleeves; ruched fabric under empire line; left side zipper closure. -
Dress
Muted red silk faille fitted dress; natural waistline; Peter Pan collar; long batwing sleeves; with shaped hem and black ball button closures; skirt with unpressed pleats; 4 inch black band at hem; mid-calf length; side zipper closure; back neck opening; originally had a black sash and gold-tone book fastener that were lost before dress was accessioned into collection. -
Jacket open to show blouse
C. Orange silk shantung blouse; brass ball button closure; convertible collar; self-fabric tie stitched along front shoulder; long straight sleeves on slanted armhole. -
Three piece ensemble
A. Brown wool tweed suit jacket; collarless; bias cut; shallow V-neckline; long dolman sleeves; double-breasted with gold metal dome buttons/slanted buttonholes. B. Brown wool tweed suit skirt; straightline; horizontal buttonhole pockets. C. Orange silk shantung blouse; brass ball button closure; convertible collar; self-fabric tie stitched along front shoulder; long straight sleeves on slanted armhole.Tags 1950s, blouse, brown, Claire McCardell, ensemble, jacket, orange, silk shantung, skirt, wool tweed -
Dress
Reddish brown plain weave cotton dress; deep V-neckline; shawl collar; empire waistline; mid-calf length; elbow length kimono sleeves; French darts; flare skirt; waist dips to deep V in back. Donor let down hem.
Purchased and worn by the donor, Nancy Smart, to wear to her engagement parties in 1948. -
Hat
Black and blue velvet and feather hat; twisted black velvet strips attached to fine net base; royal blue ostrich plume.
Worn by a member of the Kohler or House families. -
Dress without belt
A. Red cotton shift dress; irregular white, royal blue, and brown vertical stripes; button front; parabola pockets; elbow length dolman sleeves; "Design Research" label.
Worn with belt (Object ID #1993.54.b). -
Dress
A. Red cotton shift dress; irregular white, royal blue, and brown vertical stripes; button front; parabola pockets; elbow length dolman sleeves; "Design Research" label. B. Tie belt in matching fabric. -
Detail of label
Burgundy rayon crepe day dress; square neckline; long raglan sleeves with covered buttons at wrists; stitching thread is lighter than fabric color; hand-overcasting in heavy thread; bias cut; seamlines across hips; not lined; multicolored Eastern European-inspired cross-stitch floral embroidery, in strips on bodice neckline and top of sleeves; rows of faggotting near embroidery; mid-calf length. Label: "Adaptation Mainbocher Paris". -
Dress
Burgundy rayon crepe day dress; square neckline; long raglan sleeves with covered buttons at wrists; stitching thread is lighter than fabric color; hand-overcasting in heavy thread; bias cut; seamlines across hips; not lined; multicolored Eastern European-inspired cross-stitch floral embroidery, in strips on bodice neckline and top of sleeves; rows of faggotting near embroidery; mid-calf length. Label: "Adaptation Mainbocher Paris".Tags 1930s, 1940s, burgundy, crepe, day dress, dress, embroidery, Mainbocher, Mainbocher adaptation, rayon -
Evening gown
Beige silk chiffon evening gown; sleeveless; thin spaghetti straps; sweetheart neckline; bodice is made of silk chiffon with decorative silk bands sewn in; the decorative bands depict golden and orange dahlia-like flowers surrounded by reddish brown leaves on a cream ground with gold woven in; each band is 3.5 inches wide, going along the neckline, crossing in front of the bust and ending abruptly at the princess seam; empire waistline; drapey skirt of beige silk chiffon, heavily gathered at waistline; decorative bands from front cover entire back bodice, with self-fabric bow at center back waist seam; bow detaches with snap closure on left side to allow access to zipper underneath; 13 inch center back zipper closure; extra chiffon material in skirt under bow; thin beige attached underdress with similar style lines and bust darts; ankle length; label: "Mainbocher Inc." -
Detail of label inside hat
Navy blue wool WAVES uniform. A. Jacket; set-in sleeves; light blue stripe and star at wrists; padded shoulders; two fake pockets above bustline; four gold buttons at front opening; princess seams at front and back; completely lined; two inside pockets; Mrs. Judge's name stitched in collar; applique' anchor sewn on each lapel. B. Skirt; six gores; welt pockets in front; 1 inch waistband; left side zipper closure with button; not lined. C. Hat; fold-over; anchor insignia patch.
Worn by donor, Jean Judge, during World War II. According to the donor, the skirt pockets are in roughly the same position as the corresponding buttons on sailor pants. The squared-off dress hat was copied after the British seaman's hat of 18th century. The donor's was mildewed and has only the fold-over hat left, which was their Class B hat. They wore white shirts and black ties with suit for dress and navy shirts and light blue ties for work. Optional light blue shirts were available. They were allowed nylons; Navy Nurses had to wear black cotton hose. They wore a protective navy blue wool hat covering, called a havelock, in inclement weather and were not allowed to carry umbrellas or parcels. A black shoulder strap leather bag was worn with this uniform and with summer whites. Heels were no higher than 2 inches and skirt lengths 17 to 18 inches from floor. Gold buttons on jacket were for officers, plain blue plastic for non-commissioned. One blue sleeve stripe indicated lowly Ensign. The men never let them have gold stripes such as theirs.